Humectant

Serine

The key amino acid NMF — serine is one of the main components of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. It moisturizes, supports the barrier, and participates in the synthesis of sphingolipids — ceramides of the stratum corneum.

NMFMoisturizationAmino acidBarrier

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

L-Serine — a polar hydroxy amino acid (OH group in the side chain). One of the main components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) — ~7% of the amino acid pool of NMF. NMF is a mixture of amino acids, organic acids, and salts of the stratum corneum that retains water and supports pH. Serine is also a precursor of sphingosine — the basis of ceramides. In cosmetics: moisturizer, component of NMF mimetics, and supports lipid synthesis.

A moisturizing component in NMF mimetics. Often used together with other amino acids (glycine, alanine, proline), PCA, and lactic acid. Effective in toners, essences, and light serums.

Key Benefits

✦

Moisturization of the stratum corneum through NMF action

Serine and other NMF amino acids retain water in the stratum corneum through H-bonds — a natural skin hydration mechanism. NMF deficiency in atopic dermatitis and aging reduces the moisture of the stratum corneum. Topical serine restores the NMF pool and increases hydration.

◈

Participation in ceramide synthesis through sphingosine

L-Serine is a substrate for serine palmitoyltransferase — the first enzyme in sphingolipid synthesis. A decrease in serine levels may limit ceramide synthesis. Topical and oral administration of serine increases sphingolipid levels in the skin — an indirect strengthening of the barrier.

✧

Support for skin pH and microbiome

NMF amino acids participate in maintaining the slightly acidic pH of the skin (4.5–5.5). Proper pH is necessary for the activity of exfoliating enzymes, the functioning of protective microflora, and barrier enzymes. Serine in complex NMF formulations restores pH after aggressive cleansing.

Suitable for

Dehydrated skinAtopic skinSensitive skinAll skin types

Main Actions

✓ Moisturization through NMF✓ Support for ceramide synthesis✓ Restoration of pH

Serine vs Sodium PCA

Both are components of NMF. Sodium PCA (~12% NMF) — stronger hygroscopic effect. Serine (~7% NMF) — also a precursor of ceramides. The best effect is achieved by combining several NMF components together: serine + PCA + lactic acid + amino acids — a complete mimic of natural moisture.

CategoryHumectants

Check if this ingredient works for your skin — analyze your full product formula for free.

Analyze your product