Emollient

Polysorbate 80

Non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier based on sorbitol and oleic acid. One of the most common solubilizers in cosmetics: allows the incorporation of essential oils and lipophilic actives into the aqueous bases of toners, essences, and micellar waters.

SolubilizerEmulsifierNon-ionic surfactantO/W emulsions

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Polysorbate 80 (POE(20) sorbitan monooleate) — non-ionic surfactant synthesized from sorbitol, oleic acid, and 20 molecules of ethylene oxide. HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) = ~15 → predominantly hydrophilic. Viscous yellowish liquid. Very well soluble in water. Differs from Polysorbate 20 (lauric acid, C12) — Polysorbate 80 is based on oleic (C18:1), making it more effective for dissolving fats and oils. Widely used in pharmaceuticals (injectable preparations) and the food industry — very well-studied safety profile.

Toners and essences with essential oils, micellar waters, and cleansing agents, scented serums and boosters, products with lipophilic actives (retinol, vitamin E).

Key Benefits

✦

Effective solubilizer — oil in water without cloudiness

Polysorbate 80 allows dissolving a small amount of oil or essential oil in an aqueous base, resulting in a clear or slightly opalescent liquid instead of a cloudy suspension. Principle: PS80 micelles capture hydrophobic molecules — and the entire system remains homogeneous. This is critical for toners with essential oils, scented essences, and light fluids without visible separation.

◈

Improvement of wettability and penetration of actives

Due to its surfactant nature, PS80 reduces surface tension at the skin-product interface. This improves product distribution on the skin and promotes better contact with the surface. In formulas with active ingredients (AHA, BHA, niacinamide): PS80 helps evenly distribute actives without concentrated "spots."

✧

Stabilization of emulsions and suspensions

At higher concentrations (1–5%) PS80 acts as a primary or secondary emulsifier for creamy textures. Most often used together with Polysorbate 60 or cetearyl alcohol for stable O/W emulsions. Provides a soft, non-crumbling emulsion structure. Widely used in SPF creams to stabilize chemical UV filters in the aqueous phase.

Suitable for

Aqueous formulations with oilsToners and essencesLight creamy textures

Main Actions

✓ Solubilization of oils in water✓ O/W emulsifier✓ Improvement of active distribution

Polysorbate 80 vs Polysorbate 20

PS20 (lauric acid C12): smaller molecule, more effective solubilizer for light essential oils and small hydrophobic molecules. PS80 (oleic acid C18:1): better for heavier oils, fats, and lipophilic actives (retinol, tocopherol). HLB PS20 ~17 (more hydrophilic), HLB PS80 ~15. The choice between them depends on the polarity of the dissolved component.

CategoryEmollients

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