Emollient

Polysorbate 20

The most common solubilizer in cosmetics — Polysorbate 20 makes essential oils and oil-soluble ingredients soluble in water. Without it, most toners, micellar waters, and fragrance sprays would be cloudy.

SolubilizerSurfactantEssential oilsClarity

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Polysorbate 20 (Polyoxyethylene (20) Sorbitan Monolaurate) — non-ionic surfactant, an ether of sorbitan and lauryl chain with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. HLB 16.7 — primarily a solubilizer. Used to dissolve essential oils, silicones, and oil-soluble extracts in aqueous phases. In INCI: Polysorbate 20.

Standard solubilizer in toners, micellar water, hydrophilic oils, sprays, and aromatic waters. Popular in K-beauty toners and DIY cosmetics.

Key Benefits

✦

Dissolving oils in water (solubilization)

Allows the incorporation of essential oils, oil-soluble vitamins, and silicone components into clear aqueous toners and sprays without cloudiness or separation.

◈

Gentle cleansing (co-surfactant)

In low concentrations as an additional surfactant in micellar water and makeup removers — helps capture oily impurities and gently remove them.

✧

Stabilization of fragrances

Fixes volatile essential oils in the aqueous phase — prevents their rapid evaporation and preserves the scent of the product for a long time.

Suitable for

Suitable for all skin types (in regulated concentrations)

Main Actions

✓ Solubilization of oils✓ Stabilization of clear formulas✓ Gentle cleansing✓ Fragrance fixation

Polysorbate 20 vs 80 vs 60

Polysorbate 20 (lauryl, HLB 16.7) — the best solubilizer for light essential oils. Polysorbate 80 (oleyl, HLB 15) — better for heavier oils and vitamin E. Polysorbate 60 (stearyl) — used in creams. The number indicates the type of fatty acid, not the amount of EO.

CategoryEmollients

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