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Emollient

Polysorbate 20

The most common solubilizer in cosmetics — Polysorbate 20 makes essential oils and oil-soluble ingredients soluble in water. Without it, most toners, micellar waters, and fragrance sprays would be cloudy.

SolubilizerSurfactantEssential oilsClarity
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Polysorbate 20 (Polyoxyethylene (20) Sorbitan Monolaurate) — non-ionic surfactant, an ether of sorbitan and lauryl chain with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. HLB 16.7 — primarily a solubilizer. Used to dissolve essential oils, silicones, and oil-soluble extracts in aqueous phases. In INCI: Polysorbate 20.

Standard solubilizer in toners, micellar water, hydrophilic oils, sprays, and aromatic waters. Popular in K-beauty toners and DIY cosmetics.

Key Benefits

✦
Dissolving oils in water (solubilization)
Allows the incorporation of essential oils, oil-soluble vitamins, and silicone components into clear aqueous toners and sprays without cloudiness or separation.
◈
Gentle cleansing (co-surfactant)
In low concentrations as an additional surfactant in micellar water and makeup removers — helps capture oily impurities and gently remove them.
✧
Stabilization of fragrances
Fixes volatile essential oils in the aqueous phase — prevents their rapid evaporation and preserves the scent of the product for a long time.

Suitable for

Suitable for all skin types (in regulated concentrations)

Main Actions

✓ Solubilization of oils✓ Stabilization of clear formulas✓ Gentle cleansing✓ Fragrance fixation
Polysorbate 20 vs 80 vs 60

Polysorbate 20 (lauryl, HLB 16.7) — the best solubilizer for light essential oils. Polysorbate 80 (oleyl, HLB 15) — better for heavier oils and vitamin E. Polysorbate 60 (stearyl) — used in creams. The number indicates the type of fatty acid, not the amount of EO.

CategoryEmollients

Frequently Asked Questions

What does Polysorbate 20 do for skin?
Standard solubilizer in toners, micellar water, hydrophilic oils, sprays, and aromatic waters. Popular in K-beauty toners and DIY cosmetics.
Who should use Polysorbate 20?
Polysorbate 20 is suitable for: Suitable for all skin types (in regulated concentrations).
Are there any warnings about Polysorbate 20?
Polysorbate 20 (lauryl, HLB 16.7) — the best solubilizer for light essential oils. Polysorbate 80 (oleyl, HLB 15) — better for heavier oils and vitamin E. Polysorbate 60 (stearyl) — used in creams. The number indicates the type of fatty acid, not the amount of EO.

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