Emollient

Oleic Acid

Oleic Acid — monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid (C18:1), the most common fatty acid in the skin and plant oils (olive, argan, camellia). It softens the skin, increases the permeability of active ingredients, and restores the lipid barrier of oily skin.

omega-9 fatty acidemollientincreased permeabilityC18:1

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Oleic Acid (INCI: Oleic Acid) — unsaturated monocarboxylic acid: CH₃(CH₂)₇CH=CH(CH₂)₇COOH. One double bond at position Δ9 (cis-configuration). MW: 282.5 Da. Liquid state at room temperature (Tm: ~16°C). Properties: lipophilic, moderate volatility, feeling of light greasiness on the skin. Role in the skin: component of sebum (~25-30% fatty acids), part of SC lipids. Compared to linoleic acid (omega-6): less critical for barrier function but provides softness and permeability. Natural form: triglycerides of plant oils → hydrolysis or viscous oleic acid.

Nourishing oils and creams, products for dry and mature skin, permeability enhancers for active ingredients, cleansing products (cleansing oils).

Key Benefits

✦

Emollient properties — softening and plasticity of the skin

Oleic acid — one of the most effective natural emollients. Mechanism: lipophilic molecule fills the spaces between corneocytes in SC → reduces friction, gives a feeling of softness, plasticity. Feature of oleic acid vs linoleic acid: oleic acid provides a feeling of fullness and nourishment (occlusive), linoleic — lighter and absorbs faster. Ideal for: dry and very dry skin, mature skin, body products, lip care. Key component of olive, argan, camellia, avocado oils — explains their "nourishing" feel.

◈

Increased permeability of actives through SC

Oleic acid is an established penetration enhancer — increases the transport of active ingredients through the stratum corneum. Mechanism: oleic acid "inserts" between lipid chains in SC → disrupts the ordered lamellar structure → increased fluidity of lipids → greater flow of actives. Especially effective penetration enhancer for: lipophilic molecules (retinol, vitamin E, steroids); moderately hydrophilic (ketoprofen, ibuprofen in transdermal systems). Concentration 5-20%: clinically significant increase in transdermal flow. Attention: increased permeability → increased risk of irritation for sensitive skin.

✧

Antioxidant support and anti-aging activity

Oleic acid is metabolized in the skin to biologically active derivatives. Role in natural protection: component of sebum — the first line of antioxidant defense on the skin surface. Anti-inflammatory action: in vitro — partial inhibition of LOX/COX through the formation of metabolites. Anti-aging effect in oils: oleic acid in avocado, olive, and argan oils is associated with a significant anti-aging effect (increased synthesis of procollagen) — however, this is a complex effect of all components, not just OA. More stable than polyunsaturated FA (PUFA): one double bond → slower oxidation vs linoleic/linolenic.

Suitable for

dry and mature skinnormal skinbody and lip skin

Main Actions

✓ emollient softening of the skin✓ increased permeability of active ingredients✓ nourishment and restoration of the lipid layer

Oleic Acid: difference from Linoleic Acid

Oleic acid (C18:1ω9) = omega-9, monounsaturated → soft and nourishing. Linoleic acid (C18:2ω6) = omega-6, polyunsaturated → light and restorative for the barrier. Oily skin: excess OA vs deficiency of LA → prone to acne. Dry skin: needs OA for nourishment. INCI: Oleic Acid (pure) or through oils (Olea Europaea Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil). Oxidation: relatively stable, but store in a dark place, add vit E.

CategoryEmollients

Frequently Asked Questions

What does Oleic Acid do for skin?

Nourishing oils and creams, products for dry and mature skin, permeability enhancers for active ingredients, cleansing products (cleansing oils).

Who should use Oleic Acid?

Oleic Acid is suitable for: dry and mature skin, normal skin, body and lip skin.

Are there any warnings about Oleic Acid?

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