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Emollient

Linoleic Acid

The essential fatty acid Omega-6 — linoleic acid is a building block of ceramides and a critical component of the skin barrier. Deficiency leads to acne and dryness; restoration through oils (shea, grape, rosehip) restores the barrier without clogging pores.

omega-6barrierceramidesacne
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Linoleic acid (LA, 18:2, ω-6) — a polyunsaturated fatty acid with two double bonds. INCI: Linoleic Acid. Essential — not synthesized in the body, obtained from food and topically. In the skin: a structural component of Ceramide EOP (Ceramide 1) — a unique acylsphingolipid critical for the lamellar organization of the barrier. Also part of the phospholipids of cell membranes. LA deficiency is associated with: abnormal desquamation, acne (sebaceous glands accumulate LA-deficient sebum).

Light non-comedogenic oils with LA (rosehip, grape, hemp, raspberry) — for oily and acne-prone skin. Barrier restoration without heaviness. Effective topical LA in concentrations from 0.1%.

Key Benefits

✦
Restoration of Ceramide EOP and lamellar structure of the barrier
LA is a specific substrate for the synthesis of Ceramide EOP (Ceramide 1) — an acyl-ceramide with a long-chain linoleic acid. Ceramide EOP is critical for the lamellar organization of the lipid barrier. LA deficiency → Ceramide EOP deficiency → organizational disruption → increased TEWL and dryness.
◈
Normalization of sebum and reduction of acne
Sebaceous glands in acne produce LA-deficient sebum — increased oleic acid content compared to healthy skin. LA-deficient sebum is comedogenic and irritating. Topical LA normalizes the fatty acid composition of sebum — reducing comedogenicity and inflammation. Oils with 70%+ LA (rosehip, raspberry) — for acne.
✧
Anti-inflammatory action through prostaglandin E1
LA is a precursor to GLA (via delta-6-desaturase) → DGLA → PGE1 (anti-inflammatory). With a lack of enzyme activity, direct LA also has an anti-inflammatory effect through other pathways. Together with the balance of LA/oleic acid → less acne and inflammation.

Suitable for

oily skinacne-prone skindry skinatopic skin

Main Actions

✓ restoration of Ceramide EOP✓ normalization of sebum✓ strengthening the barrier
LA vs Oleic Acid: which oil to choose?

Oils with a predominance of LA (rosehip 77%, grape seed 72%, hemp 57%) — light, non-comedogenic, for oily skin. Oils with a predominance of oleic (olive 74%, avocado 63%) — fattier, for dry skin. For acne — choose oils with LA:oleic > 2:1. For very dry skin — the opposite.

CategoryEmollients

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