Emollient

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

A mixture of mono- and dioleates of sorbitan (Span 83) — one of the most lipophilic sorbitan emulsifiers. The basis for W/O emulsions for rich creams and eye cosmetics, where resistance to tears and sweat is important.

W/O emulsifierSpan 83sorbitanresistance to tears

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Sorbitan Sesquioleate (Span 83) — "sesqui" (1.5) moles of oleic acid per mole of sorbitan: a mixture of mono- and dioleates. HLB ~3.7 (more lipophilic than Span 80 HLB 4.3). Liquid at room temperature. Feature: excellent resistance to electrolytes (tears, sweat) → popular in W/O eye makeup products (mascara, eyeshadow primer). Suitable for very oily W/O systems. Used together with Polysorbate 80 or Polysorbate 85 for HLB adjustment.

Waterproof mascara and eye makeup, W/O foundations and primers, occlusive barrier balms and protective creams, sunscreen stick formats.

Key Benefits

✦

Resistance to tears and moisture — ideal for eye makeup

Sorbitan Sesquioleate is a standard emulsifier in waterproof eye makeup: its W/O emulsions do not break down upon contact with tears (electrolyte solution) or sweat. Mascara, eye primer, and waterproof eyeshadows: SSO forms a stable W/O matrix that does not wash away when moistened. HLB 3.7 → greater stability than Span 80.

◈

Very oily rich W/O emulsions

Low HLB (~3.7) allows Sorbitan Sesquioleate to stabilize W/O systems with very high oil phase content (up to 60–70% oils). Ideal for occlusive barrier creams (protective hand creams in harsh conditions) and massage creams with high fat content. Provides a characteristic "rich, protective" texture without excessive stickiness.

✧

Synergy with Polysorbate — HLB control

Sorbitan Sesquioleate + Polysorbate 80 (HLB 15.0): by changing their ratio, the HLB of the system can be precisely adjusted from 3.7 (pure SSO) to 15 (pure PS80). This gives the formulator flexibility: from W/O (HLB<6) to O/W (HLB>8) within one pair of emulsifiers. Widely used in customized formulations of cosmetic chemistry.

Suitable for

waterproof makeupW/O formulationsocclusive protective creams

Main Actions

✓ W/O emulsification✓ resistance to tears and moisture✓ oily occlusive systems

Span 80 vs Span 83 — practical difference

Span 80 (monooleate, HLB 4.3): lighter W/O, less "waxy", more plastic. Span 83 (sesquioleate, HLB 3.7): more lipophilic, more resistant to electrolytes, better for eye makeup and waterproof systems. In practice: interchangeable in many formulations. If waterproofing is critical — choose Span 83. If a lighter W/O texture is needed — Span 80.

CategoryEmollients

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