Emollient

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Non-ionic surfactant and solubilizer from hydrogenated castor oil. Allows the incorporation of essential oils and fat-soluble fragrances into clear aqueous bases without cloudiness — indispensable in perfumed toners and premium essences.

SolubilizerCastor oilNon-ionic surfactantClear formulas

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 60, HCO-60) — non-ionic surfactant: hydrogenated ricinoleic oil, ethoxylated with 60 moles of ethylene oxide. Molecular weight ~3000–4000 Da. Viscous clear or slightly yellow liquid. Well soluble in water. HLB ~14–16 → hydrophilic, suitable for solubilization and O/W emulsification. Softer and less irritating than Polysorbate 80 in some formulas. Widely used in pharmaceuticals (Cremophor RH for injections) — very well-studied safety profile. Source: castor oil + chemical hydrogenation + ethoxylation.

Perfumed toners and essences (K-beauty), scented micellar waters, clear serums with oils, cosmetics with essential oils in aqueous base.

Key Benefits

✦

Clear solubilization of essential oils and fragrances

PEG-60 HCO allows dissolving 1–5% of essential oil or fragrance in an aqueous base to obtain a crystal-clear product. This is critical for K-beauty toners and essences with natural fragrances: without a solubilizer, the product becomes cloudy and separates. HCO-60 is more effective than Polysorbate 20 for heavier fragrance compositions due to higher solubilization efficiency of more complex fatty acid mixtures (C18:1 of castor origin).

◈

Softer irritation profile compared to polysorbates

Clinical data show that PEG-60 HCO causes less irritation to mucous membranes and sensitive skin than Polysorbate 80 at comparable concentrations. This makes it the preferred choice in products for sensitive skin, products for the eye area, and in children's cosmetics. Widely used in Japanese and Korean pharmacy cosmetics precisely because of its softer profile.

✧

Stabilization of fat-soluble actives in aqueous systems

Fat-soluble vitamins (tocopherol, retinol, carotenoids) and actives (CoQ10) poorly dissolve in water. PEG-60 HCO forms micelles that capture these molecules, keeping them in solution and protecting them from oxidation. Especially useful in formulas with vitamin E and CoQ10: not only solubilizes but also improves the stability of these oxidation-sensitive actives.

Suitable for

Sensitive skinClear formulas with oilsK-beauty essences

Main Actions

✓ Solubilization of essential oils and fragrance✓ Mild O/W emulsifier✓ Stabilization of fat-soluble actives

HCO-60 vs Polysorbate 80 — choice of solubilizer

Polysorbate 80: cheaper, wider availability, less effective for very hydrophobic components. PEG-60 HCO: softer, better for sensitive skin, more effective for complex fragrances and plant oils. Both are non-ionic, safe, well-studied. For mass market: PS80. For premium and K-beauty: HCO-60. The choice depends on price, target consumer, and type of dissolved component.

CategoryEmollients

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