Emollient

Linolenic Acid

Linolenic Acid — polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acid (C18:3), essential for skin and the body. Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) restores the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and is synthesized into EPA/DHA. Found in flaxseed, hemp, raspberry, and chia oil.

omega-3 fatty acidALAbarrier restorationanti-inflammatory

⚠ Use with Caution

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Linolenic Acid (INCI: Linolenic Acid) — unsaturated C18 fatty acid with three double bonds. Two main isomers: Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA, C18:3Δ9,12,15): omega-3; essential — not synthesized by the body; precursor to EPA and DHA. Sources of ALA: flaxseed oil (~55%), chia (~63%), hemp (~20%), raspberry (~55%). MW: 278.4 Da. Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA, C18:3Δ6,9,12): omega-6; formed from linoleic acid (delta-6-desaturase); anti-inflammatory metabolite DGLA → PGE1. Sources of GLA: borage oil (~24%), evening primrose oil (~9%), hemp (~4%). In the skin: ALA → EPA → eicosanoids; GLA → DGLA → PGE1 (anti-inflammatory).

Nourishing oils and serums for dry and inflamed skin, products for atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (GLA), anti-aging products, restorative products for damaged barrier.

Key Benefits

✦

ALA — restoration of the lipid barrier and reduction of TEWL

Alpha-linolenic acid is a key essential fatty acid for maintaining a normal skin barrier. Mechanism: ALA is metabolized in SC → incorporation into lipid lamellae → restoration of barrier structure. Omega-3 deficiency in the skin: increased TEWL, dryness, flaking. Topical application of ALA: faster restoration vs oral (direct local replenishment). Comparison: ALA vs linoleic acid (LA, omega-6): both essential for the barrier, but perform different functions. LA — more critical for ceramide synthesis; ALA — for omega-3 metabolites and anti-inflammation. Oils with ALA: flaxseed, raspberry, chia — restore the barrier fastest upon application.

◈

GLA — powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-atopic action

Gamma-linolenic acid and its metabolite DGLA (dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid) exhibit pronounced anti-inflammatory activity. Mechanism: GLA → DGLA (delta-6-desaturase) → PGE1 (prostaglandin E1, anti-inflammatory) and 15-HETrE (PGE2 inhibitor). Clinical data in atopic dermatitis: topical GLA (primrose oil, borage) — reduction of itching and SCORAD. Studies: evening primrose oil (9% GLA), 16-week course — significant improvement in skin barrier in AD. Psoriasis: GLA — reduction of inflammation and hyperkeratosis. Important: deficiency of delta-6-desaturase in AD → impaired conversion of LA → GLA → direct topical GLA is a rational choice.

✧

Anti-aging and antioxidant protection

Linolenic acid (both isomers) helps protect the skin from photoaging and supports the youth of cell membranes. ALA omega-3 metabolites (EPA, DHA): inhibition of COX-2 → less PGE2 (pro-inflammatory in UV) → protection from UV-induced photoaging. Cellular level: ALA supports fluidity of cell membranes → better nutrient transport and signaling. GLA → stabilization of ceramide synthesis → support of skin density. Antioxidant in synergy: linoleic + linolenic + tocopherol (vitamin E, which protects PUFA from oxidation) → effective anti-aging complex.

Suitable for

dry and inflamed skinskin with atopic dermatitismature skin

Main Actions

✓ restoration of the lipid barrier with omega-3 acid✓ anti-inflammatory action of GLA through DGLA/PGE1✓ anti-aging antioxidant protection

ALA vs GLA: two isomers — two roles

Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA, ω3) — barrier + anti-inflammation (eicosanoids). Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, ω6) — anti-atopic + PGE1 synthesis. INCI: Linolenic Acid (ALA), Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA). ALA sources: flaxseed (55%), raspberry (55%), chia (63%). GLA sources: borage (24%), evening primrose (9%). High instability of PUFA: oxidation → rancidity → must add vit E (0.1-0.5%), store in darkness at 4-8°C.

CategoryEmollients

Frequently Asked Questions

What does Linolenic Acid do for skin?

Nourishing oils and serums for dry and inflamed skin, products for atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (GLA), anti-aging products, restorative products for damaged barrier.

Who should use Linolenic Acid?

Linolenic Acid is suitable for: dry and inflamed skin, skin with atopic dermatitis, mature skin.

Are there any warnings about Linolenic Acid?

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