Emollient

Isopropyl Palmitate

Isopropyl Palmitate is a light synthetic emollient with a dry texture. It provides products with a "powdery dry" feel and facilitates application. One of the most common conditioning emollients in mass-market cosmetics.

Light emollientdry-touchPalmitate esterSkin conditioner

✕ High Risk

Comedogenic Rating

3/5

Irritation Potential

1/5

What is it?

Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP) — an ester of palmitic acid (C16) and isopropanol. Molecular weight ~298 Da. A colorless liquid with minimal odor. Low viscosity, spreads well. Structurally similar to Isopropyl Myristate (IPM, C14), but with a longer chain → slightly greasier feel. Both belong to the class of 'isopropyl esters' in cosmetics. May have comedogenic effects on acne-prone skin (rating ~4/5 on some scales) — an important feature often noted in the context of acne-prone formulations. Widely available, relatively inexpensive.

Light day creams and body lotions, makeup bases and primers, SPF products for normal and combination skin, hair products (conditioners).

Key Benefits

✦

Dry, powdery feel — lightness without a greasy film

Isopropyl Palmitate provides a characteristic 'dry-touch' feel upon application: spreads in a thin layer, absorbs quickly, and leaves no visible greasy residue. Popular in mass-market creams and body lotions precisely because of this light texture. Compared to mineral oil (occlusive, greasy) or plant oils (which can be heavy) — IPP gives a more 'clean' feel on the skin.

◈

Improvement of spreadability and appearance of the formula

IPP reduces the viscosity of thick components in the formula and improves how the cream or lotion spreads on the skin. A few percent of IPP in the formula — and the product applies more evenly, with less drag. In primers and foundations: improves smooth application with a brush or sponge. Often used as part of an "emollient blend" along with cyclomethicone or dimethicone.

✧

Enhancement of active ingredient penetration

Isopropyl esters (IPM, IPP) are known as penetration enhancers — they facilitate the delivery of actives through the stratum corneum. Mechanism: they interact with the lipids of the stratum corneum, temporarily increasing its permeability. Useful in formulations with AHA, BHA, retinol: IPP not only provides a pleasant texture but also helps actives penetrate better. Important: this effect also increases potential irritation — it should be considered when developing formulations for sensitive skin.

Suitable for

Normal and oily skinLight texturesBody and hair

Main Actions

✓ Light dry-touch emollient✓ Improvement of spreadability✓ penetration enhancer

IPP and comedogenicity — facts and myths

Isopropyl Palmitate often appears in 'comedogenic ingredients' lists with a score of 4/5. These scales are based on the rabbit ear model from the 1970s-80s — the method is criticized for its irrelevance to humans. There is insufficient clinical research confirming the mass comedogenicity of IPP in cosmetic concentrations. However, for acne-prone skin: if you notice breakouts from products with IPP/IPM — it's better to avoid. For normal/dry/mature skin — IPP is a safe choice.

CategoryEmollients

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