Humectant

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Hydroxyethyl Urea — a powerful moisturizer of the NMF (natural moisturizing factor) class. More effective than glycerin in low humidity, it does not leave a sticky feeling and combines well with any actives.

hydrationNMFnon-stickydry skin
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Hydroxyethyl Urea — a derivative of urea, where instead of a hydrogen atom, there is a hydroxyethyl group. INCI: Hydroxyethyl Urea. Molecular weight: 104 Da. Synthetic, but analogous to natural NMF components. Concentration in products: 2–10%. Excellent solubility in water, stable over a wide pH range.

Moisturizing serums, light lotions, products for problematic and oily skin (where glycerin seems too "sticky"). Effective in climates with low humidity. Often combined with sodium PCA, betaine, urea.

Key Benefits

Hydration without stickiness
Unlike glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Urea does not leave a sticky film feeling on the skin. The molecule attracts water from the atmosphere and retains it in the stratum corneum, but feels lighter in texture. Popular in formulas for oily and combination skin.
Effectiveness in low humidity
Urea-based humectants are more effective than glycerin in low humidity (<40% RH). Hydroxyethyl Urea attracts moisture from the deeper layers of the skin, not just from the atmosphere. Accordingly — effective in dry climates and during the heating season.
Compatibility with actives and stability
Hydroxyethyl Urea is stable at pH 4–7, does not react with most actives. Does not reduce the effectiveness of retinol, vitamin C, acids. Suitable as a base moisturizer for active formulas.

Suitable for

dry skinoily skincombination skinall skin types

Main Actions

✓ hydration without stickiness✓ moisture retention NMF✓ basic humectant
Hydroxyethyl Urea vs Urea

Simple urea at 5–10% concentration has a keratolytic effect (softens the stratum corneum). Hydroxyethyl Urea is primarily a humectant without pronounced keratolysis. Both are effective for moisturizing but used for different reasons: urea — for cracked skin, hydroxyethyl urea — for daily hydration.

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