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Exfoliant

Glycolic Acid

The most powerful AHA acid exfoliant — glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size among all alpha-hydroxy acids, ensuring deep penetration, accelerating cell renewal, and clinically proven reduction of wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne.

AHAExfoliationPigmentationAnti-aging
⚠ Use with Caution
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
2/5

What is it?

Glycolic acid (гліколева кислота) — an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with a molecular weight of 76 Da, the smallest among AHAs. Naturally found in sugar cane. Mechanism of action: lowers the pH of the intercellular matrix of the stratum corneum, weakening ionic bonds between corneocytes and accelerating their exfoliation. With systematic use, it stimulates the synthesis of collagen I and III through the activation of fibroblasts. At concentrations of 5–10%, it acts superficially; at 20–70% (peels) — it reaches the papillary layer of the dermis. OTC forms are usually 5–15% at pH 3.5–4.0.

Daily products 5–10% — for regular exfoliation and even tone. Peels 20–50% — in cosmetic offices. Suitable for serums, toners, creams. Do not combine with retinol in one application. Mandatory SPF during the day — increases skin photosensitivity.

Key Benefits

✦
Deep exfoliation and cell renewal
Due to the smallest molecule among AHAs, it penetrates deeper into the stratum corneum compared to lactic, mandelic, or malic acid. It breaks hydrogen bonds between dead skin cells, accelerating exfoliation and renewal of the epidermis. Clinical studies show a 14–25% acceleration of cell turnover with regular use of an 8–10% solution.
◈
Stimulation of collagen and reduction of wrinkles
Upon penetrating the dermis, glycolic acid activates fibroblasts and stimulates the synthesis of collagen I and III. Clinical data: 8 weeks of using 10% GA — significant reduction of fine wrinkles and increased skin density. Peels 20–35% in the office show comparable results to IPL for reducing wrinkles and texture.
✧
Brightening pigmentation and even tone
Accelerating the exfoliation of the layer with excess melanin is the first mechanism. Additionally, glycolic acid inhibits tyrosinase and normalizes the distribution of melanosomes in keratinocytes. Particularly effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, and freckles — often in combination with niacinamide or vitamin C for a synergistic effect.

Suitable for

Normal skinCombination skinPigmented skinWrinkled skin

Main Actions

✓ Exfoliation and cell renewal✓ Stimulation of collagen✓ Brightening pigmentation
Glycolic acid vs other AHAs

Glycolic acid — the most effective but also the most irritating AHA due to its small molecular size. Lactic acid is milder and better for sensitive skin. Mandelic acid — the mildest, suitable for darker skin types. Glycolic is chosen for maximum effectiveness on normal/resilient skin; beginners are recommended to start with 5–8% and gradually increase the concentration.

CategoryExfoliants
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