Peptide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Lipophilic derivative of hydroxyproline — an amino acid that makes up ~10% of collagen. Stimulates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans in fibroblasts, maintaining skin elasticity and density. The advantage over hydrophilic forms is better penetration through the lipid barrier.

collagenhydroxyprolinelipopeptidefirmness
✓ Safe
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
Irritation Potential
0/5

What is it?

Hydroxyproline (4-hydroxyproline) — a unique amino acid that constitutes about 10% of the amino acid composition of collagen. Synthesized in the body with the participation of vitamin C (hydroxylation of proline). Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline — a lipophilic ester where two palmitoyl groups are attached to hydroxyproline — provides better penetration through the lipid barrier compared to free hydroxyproline. INCI: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline. Trade names: Hydroxyprolisilane CN (certain formulations). Effective concentration: 1–3%.

Anti-aging creams and serums focusing on density and elasticity. Effective in combination with vitamin C (stimulator of proline hydroxylation) and collagen peptides.

Key Benefits

Stimulation of collagen synthesis through substrate provision
Hydroxyproline is a structural element of collagen triple helices (Gly-Pro-Hyp repeats). The delivery of lipophilic hydroxyproline to fibroblasts accelerates the synthesis of procollagen — cells receive "building material." The effect is synergistic with vitamin C, which is a cofactor for prolyl hydroxylase (the enzyme that hydroxylates proline to hydroxyproline).
Stimulation of glycosaminoglycan synthesis
Studies show that hydroxyproline and its derivatives stimulate fibroblasts to produce not only collagen but also glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) — hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate. GAGs are components of the extracellular matrix that provide moisture and elasticity to the dermis. Dual action: collagen + GAG = comprehensive matrix restoration.
Improved penetration due to lipophilicity
Free hydroxyproline — a hydrophilic amino acid, poorly penetrates through the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum. Dipalmitoyl ester, due to its two palmitoyl tails, integrates into the lipid structure of the stratum corneum and is transported deeper into the dermis. This fundamentally differs from hydroxyproline in the composition of hydrolyzed collagen (surface effect).

Suitable for

mature skinskin with loss of elasticitynormal skin

Main Actions

✓ stimulation of collagen synthesis✓ stimulation of GAG synthesis✓ increase in elasticity
Hydroxyproline and vitamin C

Without vitamin C, the synthesis of hydroxyproline is impossible — hence scurvy (collagen breakdown due to Vit C deficiency). Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline combined with ascorbic acid or its stable esters provides a synergistic effect: Vit C stimulates the hydroxylation enzyme, and the additional substrate (Hyp derivative) accelerates synthesis. The best results are in multi-active formulations with both components.

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