Barrier

Ceramide AS

Ceramide AS (Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid + Sphingosine) — combines barrier restoration with effects on cellular turnover. One of the key ceramides in modern multi-ceramide complexes found in products for atopic and aging skin.

ceramides ASalpha-hydroxy ceramidebarrier lipidcellular turnover

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

Ceramide AS — ceramide with Alpha-hydroxy fatty acid (2-hydroxy FA) and Sphingosine base (trans-4-sphingenine). One of the natural ceramides in the skin, present in smaller amounts than NP, but important for the completeness of the lipid profile. Molecular weight ~650–700 Da. Lipid-soluble. Combines two functional features: alpha-hydroxy FA → hydrogen bonds and dense lipid packing (as in Ceramide AP); sphingosine base → signaling properties (sphingosine is a precursor of sphingosine-1-phosphate — an important lipid mediator). Obtained synthetically (vegan possible).

Complete multi-ceramide complexes (NP+AP+AS+EOP), products for atopic and mature skin, premium barrier creams, anti-aging products with ceramide matrix.

Key Benefits

✦

Completeness of the ceramide profile — AS as a key class

Ceramide AS is one of the most common types of ceramides in human skin (along with NP, AP, EOP, NS). Without AS in the multi-ceramide complex, barrier restoration is incomplete — even if NP, AP, and EOP are present. Brands like CeraVe include ceramide AS (sometimes without explicit labeling) in their patented MVE (MultiVesicular Emulsion) technology complex for maximum coverage of the natural ceramide profile.

◈

Signaling properties — regulation through sphingosine

The Sphingosine base of Ceramide AS is a precursor of sphingosine-1-phosphate (S1P) during enzymatic degradation. S1P is an important lipid mediator that regulates cell proliferation, apoptosis, and inflammation. Topical application of ceramide AS may partially influence these processes through local metabolism in the skin. This gives AS additional cell-regulatory properties compared to purely "structural" ceramides.

✧

Alpha-hydroxy function — denser lipid layer

The presence of an alpha-hydroxy group in the fatty acid chain of Ceramide AS (as in Ceramide AP) increases the number of hydrogen bonds in the lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum. Result: a more compact organization of lipid plates → fewer gaps → lower TEWL. At the same time, the sphingosine base adds some fluidity due to the cis-double bond C18:1 — a balance between density and flexibility of the barrier.

Suitable for

atopic and dry skinmature skinmulti-ceramide formulations

Main Actions

✓ restoration of the skin ceramide profile✓ dense lipid packing✓ signaling action through sphingosine

Ceramide AS in numerical nomenclature

Old INCI: no direct numerical equivalent — Ceramide AS was not previously distinguished separately or included in the general concept of "ceramides." The new nomenclature (INCI 2010+) clearly distinguishes AS from NP, AP, NG, and EOP. That is why AS is more commonly found on the packaging of modern (post-2010) ceramide products. If you see a list of "Ceramide NP, AP, AS, EOP" — this is the most complete modern standard.

CategoryBarrier Repair

Check if this ingredient works for your skin — analyze your full product formula for free.

Analyze your product