Soothing

Bisabolol

The gold standard for soothing from chamomile — α-bisabolol reduces redness, accelerates healing, and enhances the penetration of other actives. One of the most well-documented soothing ingredients with over 50 years of clinical use.

SoothingChamomilePenetrationHealing

✓ Safe

Comedogenic Rating

0/5

Irritation Potential

0/5

What is it?

α-Bisabolol (levomenol) — a monocyclic sesquiterpenol, the main active component of chamomile essential oil (Matricaria chamomilla, Chamomilla recutita). Synthetic (dl-bisabolol) or natural (l-bisabolol, levomenol). The natural l-isomer is more active. A notable property — penetration enhancer: reduces the barrier resistance of the stratum corneum, increasing the penetration of other ingredients. Stable at pH 4–9.

A soothing component in products for sensitive, atopic skin and post-procedure. Enhances the effectiveness of other actives — used to boost the delivery of retinol, niacinamide, and antioxidants.

Key Benefits

✦

Powerful soothing and reduction of redness

Blocks the synthesis of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins and leukotrienes. Reduces NF-κB activation and IL-1β levels. Clinical studies: statistically significant reduction in redness and sensitization compared to placebo. Effective for rosacea, contact dermatitis, and irritation after procedures.

◈

Acceleration of wound healing and regeneration

Accelerates keratinocyte proliferation and extracellular matrix synthesis. In vitro: bisabolol accelerates 'wound closure' (wound healing assay) by 32% compared to control. Used in post-procedure products (after lasers, peels) and in atopic dermatitis.

✧

Penetration enhancer — enhancing the delivery of actives

Interacts with the lipids of the stratum corneum, temporarily loosening their structure and reducing diffusional resistance. Increases the penetration of retinol, niacinamide, and other actives by 20–40% depending on the molecule. A valuable property for optimizing the effectiveness of the entire formula.

Suitable for

Sensitive skinAtopic skinNormal skinPost-procedure

Main Actions

✓ Soothing inflammation✓ Accelerating healing✓ Enhancing the penetration of actives

α-Bisabolol vs β-Bisabolol

α-Bisabolol (levomenol) — the active form, it is found in chamomile and used in cosmetics. β-Bisabolol — a structural isomer with lower activity. In INCI check: Bisabolol or (-)-alpha-Bisabolol = the correct form. Synthetic dl-bisabolol is effective, but natural l-bisabolol is approximately twice as active.

CategorySoothing Ingredients

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